Retinoids ... 3 things you should avoid while using a retinol.
Updated: Nov 1, 2019
Retinoids are well known for being the ultimate does-it-all skin solution. This vitamin-A derived product—commonly used in its over-the-counter form, retinol—treats acne, fights signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles, unclogs pores, and evens out skin. How does this magic work? "Retinol stimulates a quicker renewal of skin cells,” explains New York City-based dermatologist Debra Jaliman, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and author of Skin Rules "When someone uses retinol, the outer layer of the skin is sloughed off and the newer skin underneath is revealed."
What could be more appealing than fresh, unblemished, youthful-looking skin? But this revitalization doesn’t come without risks. "Retinoids can be irritating and drying to the skin, especially when you first start using them,” says Shari Lipner, MD, PhD, a dermatologist at NewYork-Presbyterian and Weill Cornell Medicine. And that’s on their own—combine retinoids with other strong ingredients found in cleansers, creams, and serums, and the results can be uncomfortable—and unsightly, too.
Retinoids get the job done by exfoliating your skin, and this is one case where more isn't better: When you add another powerful exfoliant on top of your retinoid—like alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA)—it can leave your skin raw, says Ava Shamban, MD, a Beverly Hills dermatologist and founder of SKIN FIVE. AHA is not the only problematic exfoliating acid: Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), also known as salicylic acid, is also a poor mix with retinoids, says Dr. Jaliman. Along with going after whiteheads and blackheads, the salicylic acid exfoliates the skin.
You can still use these products—just stagger your application. "Products with acids can be used during the daytime and retinoids at night,” says Dr. Jaliman. Or, use an antioxidant as a serum, recommends Dr. Shamban. "It will both penetrate better and reduce the chance of irritation."
2. Astringents, toners, and other drying agents
Retinoids tend to dry out your skin—so the last thing you want to do is deprive it of moisture further. "It is best to avoid other drying agents when using retinoids such as toners, astringents, and medicated cleansers. These products cause further irritation,” says Dr. Lipner. Consider, instead, piling on rich, creamy moisturizers.
3. Benzoyl peroxide
As you can see, mixing ingredients that do the same thing as retinoids—drying your skin or sloughing it off—can cause problems. With benzoyl peroxide, the reverse problem occurs. This powerful pimple-treatment can cause your retinoid to oxidize, says Dr. Shamban. Why’s that bad? Put simply, when your retinoid is oxidized, it’s less effective.
Tips for applying retinoids so you get the good results (without dry, irritated skin)
Start small, go slow: A little goes a long way, says Dr. Lipner. A pea-sized amount of the product can treat your entire face, she adds. And ease into the medication. "I tell my patients to start slowly, using the medication Monday, Wednesday, and Friday until their skin acclimates to the medication," she says. Once your skin is accustomed, you can increase usage to nightly.
Use sunscreen: "Using retinol can make your skin more sun sensitive,” says Dr. Shamban, who recommends not spending a lot of time in the sun. Whether or not you use a retinoid, make it a daily habit to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen that’s SPF 30 or above.